Mount Isa 29-8-12

Looked around the town this morning.  Michael went to  Toyota with the destroyed locking nut, but they were not at all helpful, didn’t have one. had to  wait for the warranty manager didn’t know where the wreckers yard was blah, blah.  Michael walked out and decided to  go  to Autobarn or similar and buy some locking nuts.  He needs to protect his new baby.

After that we went shopping, some food items are cheaper here than in Melbourne, surprising.

Moved into our cabin at 1:00 and Michael started on the car.

Michael and Tony cleaned out the car fridges in the afternoon and put our food away.  We have had to provision for 7 days.  Tony and Jen had their afternoon snooze and Michael and I went to look around again.  Michael was successful in getting locking nuts.  The mines here are huge, the town is strange, it is very spread out, no  real shopping strips, it’s very hard for new comers to find anything except Coles, Kmart and Woolworths.

We are going out to tea again this evening, I am enjoying being lazy.

Probably get an early start in the morning, we are off to Adel’s Grove.  At the moment we are ahead of schedule due to  flooded Simpson Desert.

Boulia to Mount Isa 28-8-12

I seem to have duplicated the photos in the photo album.  I am trying to clean it up, but it will take some time.

Stayed last night in motel – felt very pampered.

Boulia is a lovely little town, it is a bustle today there is a big event in town, a Supreme Court judge has come to hand down a land rights decision.  Tony was talking to a couple of aboriginal ladies at our motel, I was dying to join them but too shy.  Tony called me over and I met the elder of the Pitta Pitta mob – female.  Her parents were the King of the Diamantina and the Queen of a neighbouring area (can’t remember what it was), that gives her authority over a very large group indeed.  She was a very vigorous and dynamic woman, responsible for some of the tourist infrastructure in her Diamantina region.  That is her in the photo with me.

Yesterday Tony noticed that the shop over the road sold Tyres, so Michael went over this morning for a look, after some unsuccessful calls to Mt Isa tyre providers.  They didn’t have any BF Goodrich’s in our size but they had a Coopers that was more or less compatible and would certainly do as a spare.  Wait for it David…….we now have a tyre with 10 ply walls…… a Cooper’s ST Max ($448), a step above Tony’s Coopers ST [2 ply].  Tony is wrapped, keeps admiring it.  I think  Michael will attempt to match it when we need to buy new tyres and so will Tony.

After Michael had organised the tyre and we had to wait for the fitting etc., we went to see the Min MIn lights show (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Min_Min_light) (http://www.uq.edu.au/news/?article=4265)

It had animated figures that told the stories of different people who have seen the lights, it took about 40 minutes and was quite interesting.

Went for coffee and to order sandwiches for lunch, hmm I have never had to wait so long for a sandwich – at least 1/2 hour, they were busy making salads, plates of cake etc. for the Supreme Court bunfight. While we were in the cafe a fight broke out between a couple of aborigines from the Boulia mob and a neighbouring mob.  Sigh.  Jen and Tony were asked if they had seen the fight, but none of us had, being inside the cafe.

We were finally on the road, a funny little bitumen strip one car wide.  The country is lovely we now have eucalypts in flower, some other shrub, we didn’t get out to  see, in yellow flower, green shrubs, good spinifex cover and surrounding hills and rocky outcrops, very nice.

We stopped at Dajarra for lunch.  Dajarra was once the largest cattle trucking depot in the world, but the advent of the road trains finished that and now it is a very tiny town.

We are seeing some animals again.  Emus, wedge tailed eagles and DEAD kangaroos.  No live ones during the day.  A young aborigine in Boulia told us that there were no kangaroos in the country we had been through before Boulia but that we should see them from now on.

We arrived mid afternoon and had intended to get a motel or cabin to save on the setting up of our camps.  Went to the Information Centre and asked her to ring around on our behalf, to see where there were any vacancies.  She rang every Motel and camp ground with cabins in her book.  No room at the inn.  We had to camp in the camping ground for one night and tomorrow we can move into a cabin.

Went to a Chinese restaurant for tea.  Paul we Paid $14.95 for a glass of chardonnay!

Birdsville to Boulia 27-8-12

In the morning we drove into Birdsville to have a look around.

Hmmm there are many many people in town and…….the variety bash is about to leave. There are approx 50-60 cars all lined up along the street being sent off in groups. We are not too happy to be following in their wake eating their dust (they are going the same way we are. Still it’s really interesting and a great deal of fun. The cars [many old classics] are all decked out, horns playing different noises including a cat’s meow from one of the cars. They are all beautifully decked out – including a pink one Belle. They have ‘things’ on their rooves - a bed, a camel, a model of the Birdsville pub etc. We watch until they have left (or nearly all) and go to the bakery for a coffee. Wefigure to give them 1/2 to 3/4 hours start.

Birdsville is under preparation for the Birdsville races next weekend – all the food vendors are arriving and setting up plus the Boxing Tent. Last year over 5000 attended the races. Made a quick visit into the Birdsville Hotel, then off northwards.

 

The roads are excellent, a lot of bitumen now, we make good time and have lunch in Bedourie very nice setup for travellers.  There is nothing out here, it is a vast empty country.  We haven’t seen very much wildlife – 3 brolgas, a few emus, and……2 feral cats.  No kangaroos at all.  we were speaking to a local aboriginal in the bar and he says that there are no kangaroos in that country, but that we should see a few from now on.  He also told us that they had a plague of very large rats some time ago and this killed off a lot of the feral cats, they choked on the rat’s fur!

We reached Boulia about 3.45 and booked into a motel. Showers!!!!! We have not had a shower for 7 DAYS. This was heaven. Thank god for baby wipes. Unfortunately they can’t do anything for the hair.

Have tea in the hotel restaurant and sleeping in beds tonight.  Amazing how we take things for granted, even sitting on a toilet seat is bliss.  Haha

Innamincka to Birdsville 26-8-12

On the Sunday morning we packed up camp and went up the the hotel for breakfast 7:30EST. The doors were open, but no lights on so we walked in. A few minutes later someone told us they didn’t open until 7:30. I looked at my watch and said ‘it is 7:30. He looked back at me and said ‘that’s Queensland time’. Hmm we were in South Australia and hadn’t given a thought to time differences. Still they were nice and let us sit in the warm. They did lock the doors though so that others couldn’t come in. Breakfast was fantastic. The workmen came in at 7:30 and boy did they eat (it was buffet) apparently they are staying there as well and the company picks up the tab. We saw them collect lunch as well, they are really looked after. Michael spoke to one who said that today they were doing a ‘snake handlers’ course.

We went to Burkes grave approx. 30 km from Innamincka and then drove a further 50 km to  the ‘Dig Tree site” and walked through some very interesting country to get to it. There was a very lovely perfume in the air from one of the wildflowers. Wills must have been an incredible navigator to get them back to the one tree [17 weeks later] where they had left part of the expedition who were waiting for their return.  Probably using only the stars.

On the road to Birdsville the Prado had a nasty blowout and the tyre was shredded.  When Tony tried to get the spare tyre off the back, the  nut [under the security cover] twisted and split leaving only 2-3mm of nut for the wheel nut remover to go over.  This left us with a big problem – how to get the spare tyre off the car rear.  Tony hammered a groove into the remaining part of the nut, put a chisel in the groove and he and Michael use a spanner to turn the chisel.  Whew it came off.  Still pretty disgusting that a nut breaks under human pressure.  We have to  try to buy a new tyre now.

Arrived in Birdsville to  find the caravan park pretty full [Variety Bash in town for the night] and not so nice so drove back out a couple of kms and bush camped.  Our camp site had a couple of camels some +/-200metres away, but we could clearly hear the old bull during the night.

This had been a very big day some 575km, nearly all on dirt but good roads.

Innamincka 23-8-12 to 26-8-12

We all had a great nights sleep on the first night.  The birds started calling at dawn, the pelicans came gliding down the river in flotillas.

Michael and Tony assembled Tony’s new boat and I caught up on the blog.  All very, very pleasant.

To Dean: When Michael and Tony put the Sea Eagle together Tony has told me to tell you  that he wishes you were here for a paddle.

We are having a lazy time, lovely.

Tony and Jennifer like an afternoon nap every afternoon and Michael and I sit under a big red gum in the shade reading a book (heaven – except for the flies when they arrive.  There is a host of flies around about lunch time then a breeze blows up and they are gone.  The weather is fantastic – about 25-26 degrees.  (it was 33 on the way here, but we could put our air conditioners on if we chose).  Nights are coolish but we are well equipped.

Michael and Tony take the sea eagle out several times and stop at neighbouring camp sites chatting to the people.  A couple of the camp sites have toilets (we don’t), but are their sites are not as good as ours.

The Park rangers called to check our permits etc. (Hehe Tony has put his on the Nissan Patrol, but has brought the troopie – fortunately they were up at Innamincka getting fuel ready for leaving tomorrow. It wouldn’t have been a problem, Tony and Jennifer renew their permits every year ‘just in case’ so they could easily be checked up on.  The ranger tells us that the trees (one each) that we are camping under are Coolabah trees, shades of waltzing Matilda.

Tony experiments with his cooking and makes baked apples Dean (He says they are the ones we picked in Wonnangatta –do you believe him?  Haha)

We went on a 10 minute night walk with Tony to see if we could spot any wild life.  Not a thing except for glowing little jewels in the grass which turn out to be spiders (probably their eyes catching the light), there are a great many of them.  We have seen them in other places, they are very wide spread.

I went for a walk and disturbed a rabbit, Tony routed one later, but really nothing else.  We think we saw the tracks of a ‘dog/dingo but didn’t see it.  We had a strange little track that went across the road between our 2 camps, we think it was a large lizard.  Funny thing is, it’s tracks were over ours which means it must have crossed during the day, but we didn’t see it.

Every day an army of ants (60 cm wide troop) march down towards the river which must be at least 100+ metres away from their nest, they pass by us for several hours, then come back later in the afternoon, some with food / ant eggs.  This is quite a walk on their little legs.  On the first day we were there they marched across to our tent and ‘had a look’ after that they ignored us and resumed their usual path.

We walked to the King’s site where King from the Burke and Wills fiasco was rescued.  When we leave here we are going to Burkes grave site and the “Dig Tree’.

There is a blue photo (sky) in the album, if you can enlarge them you may see the birds.  They are some kind of hawk/eagle/falcon circling high above on the thermals, there must have been 50 or so, we have never seen so many together.

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Tibooburra to Innamincka 22-8-12

 

Travelled to Cameron’s Corner over quite a rough road (as expected) lots of sand dunes (with good road through them) like being on a roller coaster.  Sometimes the road turned immediately after the peak which was a bit disconcerting and there were lots of twists and turns to be negotiated.  I was a little worried at times but Michael negotiated them very well. 

We passed two cars that had problems but saw that they had a service vehicles already in attendance.  They appeared to  be rally cars.. 

We crossed a large dry lake which was an interesting experience.

We saw loads of emus again.  It is quite astonishing, there is a lot of ground cover, low bushes and spinifex.  The locals tell us that they have had quite a bit of rain, so that probably explains it.

Am again impressed by the vast emptiness of this country.

We arrive at Cameron’s Corner ( 3 states meet – New South Wales, South Australia and Queensland) to find it very busy, there is a rally on – raising money for the some Starlight children’s foundation.  We quickly have our tea/coffee/loo stop (“drip dry” and “flip dry”), take some photos and move on before the rally does.  We do not want to be travelling on the road with them eating their dust.

We passed a lot of oil & gas production rigs which probably explains the condition of the roads – roads off to the rigs clearly states No Public Access..

We didn’t go all the way to the Strzelecki track but took the Merty Merty track which was in very good condition. Hard sand based made driving easy.  We found a small tree for shade and had lunch.  Lucky enough to have a large lizard right beside us.  (see the photo album)

Finally arrived in Innamincka to find a horrible windstorm – sand blowing everywhere. very unpleasant.  we had a drink in the hotel just so  that Michael could say he had had a drink in the Innamincka pub and went to find a campsite.  We had a hard time putting the tent up in the wind, Tony and Jennifer in the troopie were up and running in no time. 

We have a lovely spot right by the river (Cooper’s Creek) in King’s camping ground. 

Set up camp, made a fire and settled down all of us very tired.  By the time it was tea time the wind died down and the flies came out.  But the birds began to  arrive, pelicans, Corellas and some other little ones I don’t recognise will look them up.  The cockatoos must have nests in the hollows of which there are many, every hollow we could see had a couple bobbing in and out.

Dusk came the flies disappeared and it was lovely sitting around the camp fire.

Broken Hill to Tibooburra 21-8-12

Went shopping early for last minute items such as fruit, bread, milk and vegetables,may not be near decent food for 8 days – this can alter according to circumstances of course.  We had our first minor problem today on the road -  truck kicked up  a stone and chipped Tony’s windscreen – he has applied a patch so we all hope it holds up.

We had a heavy headwind so our fuel consumption has gone up (unmade roads) – getting fuel up here is not as difficult as fresh water and fresh food.

We have seen hundreds of emus by the road (no exaggeration Paul)  Tony and Jennifer say they have never seen so many (they are very well travelled folks)  Michael and me??  Well we have never seen so many either but that is not saying so much.

We have unfortunately seen more dead kangaroos than live ones but we are seeing more wedge tailed eagles as we travel further into the wilderness.

We stopped at Pack Saddle for lunch which was very nice – in the middle of nowhere and they were holding a conference.  We think it was farmers learning how to get carbon credits.

We call in at Milparinka to see the small historic town just outside Tibooburra.  This was quite interesting and the new caretakers (4 months) very helpful and friendly.  I started talking to  man who said he had just come through the Simpson and that all roads were open.  I called Tony over and they got into a ‘discussion’ (we are lead to believe that most of it is closed)..  Sure enough after loud conversation a map was consulted and of course Tony was correct.  Thank god we have a travelling companion who is ‘in the know’.  Just prior to  Milparinka we were talking on the CB when a voice came over – very angry and told us to  get off since it was an emergency channel.  I paid no interest at first then he came on again and threatened to come up  and get us.  Tony was in no doubt as to the nature of the call and proclaimed him a nutcase and told him not to  be rude.  Then he started to play music to keep  the radios busy. He told us he ‘could do this all day’ He finally gave up…..but I would have believed him.

  SIGH.

We camped in an aboriginal camping ground at Tibooburra – very pleasant but Michael and I need practice with the tent (we hadn’t put it up  before too wet at Mount Evelyn).  We will get better (hehe I hope).

Broken Hill–20-8-12

Had a long day today.  Tony and Jen left home at 4:30 AM we left at 5:00.  Met up at the Service Centre in Calder Park at 6:00 and had breakfast.  Had morning tea a Charlton and lunch at Ouyen.  Poor Jen got a really bad deal; initially they brought the wrong order, then when she reordered, the avocado on her wrap was a nice dark brown.  I seriously don’t know how they could dish that up let alone charge for it.  We then drove onto Mildura where she bought something to her liking.

Coming along the Calder Highway was very pretty (once we got out of the fog), there are many species of wattle in bud and quite a few in flower, it will be wonderful in a week or two. The Silver City Highway  (Mildura to  Broken Hill) had lots more wildlife – Emus and goats, few kangaroos, than we saw last time we were here (last year), the season must be very kind to them.  And….we saw SUN! 

We had a bit of a disappointment when we got to  Broken Hill (5:40), the very nice miner’s cottage that we had booked was not vacant.  This cottage is used by the RACV for stranded people with car trouble – we stayed there last year when we were in difficulties.  There were some people there whose car parts still had not turned up.  Sigh.  We have found a cabin where Tony and Jen stayed before, not as nice but it is a roof over our heads and we are all dead tired.  We have just got back from tea – nice Italian meal.  Tony is pleased tonight was a 2 for one pizza night. he got 2 pizzas for the price of one.